The Project Car Thread

[VR6 Man]

Originally Posted by Evo_power

That's a very nice garage you have there dude. Do you own that house or do you rent?

Thank you very much. I am quite blessed to own it.

Originally Posted by the solitaire

I lost track of this thread because I have been occupied with some other stuffs recently.

That plan sounds good. I woud advise to make all the single parts using a single layer of fiber, except for the runners. Might advise to use two there.

For an intake, 3 layers should be enough (that makes 4 on the runners) when vacuumbagging at least the last 2 layups. The vacuum bag layup is far more rigid then regular layup.

Your test turned out good enough as well. As far as the shine goes, you can always sand and polish the outside, add a last layer of resin using a paint roller, then sand and polish untill smooth

Thanks for the advice. I plan to make all the small pieces on their own and then connect everything together with a few layers.

[VR6 Man]

I found an intercooler that will work for my VR6 supercharger project:



It's the one from my Cabby, and it fits perfectly on the MK4.

And the oil cooler came in for the Cabby.

[Evo_power]

Are you going to upgrade the radiator/fan system on your Jetta?

I know you said the FMIC on your cabby was one of the leading causes for overheating. Is there just more area for airflow to your radiator on this car?

[Cooper "s"]

hmmm maybe if you also put an airdamn under the car, you can also get added airflow under the car into the engine compartment.... then vent the hood, and you can eliminate any high pressure zone you might create.

[VR6 Man]

Originally Posted by Evo_power

Are you going to upgrade the radiator/fan system on your Jetta?

I know you said the FMIC on your cabby was one of the leading causes for overheating. Is there just more area for airflow to your radiator on this car?

I'm beginning to think the FMIC wasn't the only problem. The rad was original, I think cap was too, so more than likely that was the biggest problem. Along with random restrictions in the lines and crap.

BUT, I want to make sure the Cabby doesn't run hot, ever, so I want to get rid of the intercooler to move the rad closer to the grill, as well as free up some room between rad and actual engine block. The intercooler was so thick it forced me to have the rad a good 4 inches or more closer to the block.

I could have probably just replaced rad and cap and everything would have been fine, but any chance to upgrade and clean up the bay is enough of an excuse for me.

Originally Posted by Cooper "s"

hmmm maybe if you also put an airdamn under the car, you can also get added airflow under the car into the engine compartment.... then vent the hood, and you can eliminate any high pressure zone you might create.

I've seen much larger FMICs on MK4 VR6s, so I am thinking I wont have a problem with this one.




Also, I bought the air/water intercooler system tonight from frozenboost.com. So, we will see how it works.

[Evo_power]

I totally agree with you doing meth injection!

I know you didn't suggest that you were going to do it, but now it's in your head...

Think of the benefits! Look at the things you'd get to learn!

[VR6 Man]

Originally Posted by Evo_power

I totally agree with you doing meth injection!

I know you didn't suggest that you were going to do it, but now it's in your head...

Think of the benefits! Look at the things you'd get to learn!

I haven't put much thought into meth injection yet for a few reasons. First off, the block isn't built for much power yet, so 300-350 HP is all I can really run, which isn't a problem for me to make with just boost. Secondly, I want the car to run and drive cool on its own, without having to run water/meth yet.

It will come, but not until the car runs reliably without it. Then, down the road, I can add it, advance my timing a crap ton, and make a whole bunch of power.

That's the other thing, I would want to tune the ecu on a dyno if I was going to mess with water/meth because you can advance your timing a whole bunch when you use it, but you have to be careful or you can start to melt pistons and things

[Evo_power]

Well I can't wait to see whatever it is you're going to do

Good luck, we're all counting on you.

[Cornelius Van]

Update on the car's condition:

The rumble is very sensitive to temperature. I've thought several times that it got better as I drove it longer, but the difference has never been distinct enough for me to dismiss my own over-analyzing/paranoia.

Today was distinctly colder than usual, as fall is upon us. The vibration was wicked evil bad at first, but gradually got better over the course of about 15-20 minutes.

This leads me to believe my problem stems from something around the connection between the back of the transmission and the front of the driveshaft. It warms slowly, but does respond to being warm.

I'm guessing centering guide; I'll have to tear it down to see.

[Evo_power]

I doubt this is it, but have you checked to see if your trans mounts are shot?

[Cornelius Van]

They look nice.

[Evo_power]

So is your girlfriends ass but it's probably ****ed right now.

I'd replace your car...with a better car. I'd turbo your engine. That'll probably solve the problem.

[Cornelius Van]

I've been thinking about a nice turbo too...

That should clean up the driveline AND my front end shimmy.

I'll bet if I really dial the boost up it'll even clean up some of the body rust.

[VR6 Man]

Update for me:

I just spent the last couple evenings/days setting up my AWIC setup, redoing the entire cooling system, fixing random problems the car had from its last outing, and general stuff like that.

I am leaving tomorrow to go to H2O International, the biggest VW show in the USA, and unfortunately, I wont be taking my car. About an hour ago (around 11pm), with still a few hours of work to go on the car, I broke a bolt in the exhaust manifold while trying to remove the turbo from the manifold so I could replace the bolts holding it on with proper studs.

So now I am without a car for the show again this year. I guess there is always next year.

Pictures of the AWIC and oil cooler install to come next week.

[jjo]

Prior to cracking open the Hemi and slipping in
a hotter cam (upgraded valvetrain included)
I'm now seriously considering these babies
from ARH...they'ze close, I can drive down to NY.





http://www.americanracingheaders.com...gnum_300C.html
At US$1500 it should be worth it if their advertised HP gain is to be believed (28-32 WHP).

@ VR6, cool runnins w/ your AWIC...those units add HP's !