The Project Car Thread

[Evo_power]

So Attaus, let me get this straight.

You HAD an LS1...then you went to a straight 6, now you've got a 4 banger truck motor?

It's like your cars are regressing. You're next car is gonna be a 2 cylinder Fiat won't it?

[texlonghorn]

Ewwwww, 240.

Actually, I just hate them because there is a kid in some of my automotive classes that has one and he is a complete moron/tool. I know however, that you are neither of those Attaus, and I respect the work you've done to your car.

[the solitaire]

Originally Posted by Cooper "s"

Good to hear it hold in place...

would suck to see that thing flying off at speed on the highway.


When you talk about the front end being planted at speed, is this based on perception mainly, or have you taken some data?

Either way, thats good results.


I have an airdam on my car as well, but right behind the thing is a flat under-body panel, so i don't get any air into the radiator.



the three air damns (all rubber)

and the under body panel.




I know if I take the bottom floor, I would get some air up to the radiator, but would loose my flat floor.

You should definately keep the flat bellypan.
Aerodynamically seen it´s superior to my setup.
The set of airdams is there to direct the air, prevent part of it from mving under the nose of the car, create a low pressure area to get a little downforce on the nose of the car, and it´s interrupted towards the edges to lead some air to the brakes by the looks of it.

Your setup is set up to get air from the front grille. With the bellypan I guess it´ll eject the air towards the back of the bellypan.
I could make something similar for my car, but would have to include the baffle and airdam setup to cool the engine because mine doesn´t get air through the front of the car at all. I would also have to interrupt the bellypan directly behind the radiator to utilize the low pressure area built up by the airdam.

It wouldn´t be as bad as it appears if my airdam would go flying at speed. It weighs about as much as cardboard, and if it breaks, it shatters to small pieces first so nthing that could damage any of the other cars in traffic. Not sure about pedestrians, but those are not allowed on the highway anyways.

The added downforce was determined by driving with, without, using a bigger or smaller airdam at various speeds between 80 and 130 mph on the same stretch of road. I live pretty close to a stretch of Autobahn, so each time after I made changes I tok the car to the road and tested to see if the thing would come flying off at higher speeds.

It has been interesting to feel the difference in front grip, and they are very noticable. The vacuum mostly plays a part in cooling the engine. It does little for the downforce, mostly because of the remaining ground clearance I need for an actual street car.

It would be interesting to be able to go all out on a car like this, building a racecar from the F body chassis. I see a lot of potential in the car when placing the engine and transmission back another 4-6", the driver another 8", moving some weight to the back of the car and reducing the weight on the front some, and then build a decent aero setup. When either mini-tubbing the rear or replacing the live rear axle by a Corvette IRS which isn´t too much work either once the parts are there, the F body cars can easily be set up to outhandle a lot of modern sportscars.

I can also see how that would have me spend $10 000 or more on the suspension setup alone, with another $5000 going into chassis work.

[Cooper "s"]

??

or more into the

[the solitaire]

I think $10k-$15k invested in suspension parts, braking parts and tube I could build something like:

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/8...Sump-350-.html



Maybe that´s something for a next project, once I have finished my daily.

[Cooper "s"]

maybe you should save those 10k in upgrades and just buy that one...and take it over to ze germany.

[the solitaire]

I actually considered doing just that, either for a 3rd gen GT1 or an early 4th gen GT1 roller.

Drop in a nice 350 or 383, and a T56 and just have fun.

Would be a great toy, but the problem is that I couldn´t drive it anywhere. All open racing series and race weekends require vehicles to be street legal. If I start out with a chassis that has a valid registration, fitting a rollcage, wide bodykit, have it inspected, then gut the car and put in the good stuff before a following inspection, I can keep it street legal.

[Cooper "s"]

yeah i see, I would agree with you keeping it street legal...

while having a full out race car would be fun for a while, I can see it get old.

[Driftster]

made some big time project decisions...

So far I have picked upa M52B28 which i got for a decent price...but I'm going to be selling it for 800...which is a 600 dollar turn around profit considering i haven't put any money into it yet outside of a spray bottle and a gallon of purple power...

I ALSO am picking up a M50tuB25 today...from across town..for get this..130 bucks..

headgasket went out on guys wifes car...she drove 2 miles on it....i've inspected it..head has no cracks...

What i get from this is a 2.5L block, a Vanos head, AND obd1 EQUIPPED STANDARD..

considering the extent of the build standard internals are not an issue for me on the build as they will be swapped out anyway...

Which is BMW's strong point, the engines are lego's quite litterally..

you can take any part (sans MAYBE 1-2 models rods) from a M50B20/M50B25/M50B23/M50TuB20/M50TuB25/S50B30/S50b32/S52b32/M52B20/M52B24/M52B25/M52B28/M52TuB25/M52tuB24/M52tuB28/M54b22/m54b25/m54b30.........

And put it into ANY of the other engines listed with zero work needed what so ever..

Not to mention lots of parts are both backwards and forwards compatible with successor and predecessor engines..



So now i'm up a M50tuB25...Which is host to the EXACT same block and head as all the others....OBD1 equipped manifolds and tuning...Vanos head so giving me the choice to run vanos or N/V...AND it saved me a crap load of money...


I'm also set on buying a good chunk of mil-spec wire fittings/couplers...That way i can do a mild/medium Wire-tuck...And be able to pressure wash everything under the hood without any risk of grounding...

I'm calling around and waiting on someone to get themselves a 2.8L crank, which will go into the M50tuB25..And give me a OBD1 M52B28 as far as schematics go, as vanos didn't truly become variable until the 54 series engine...Avg cost for the crank is 200 bucks, seen a few for 150...might pul my own for 100.....

All that's really left in the planning phase is to decide what wheels.

[Evo_power]

What turbo are you gonna run?

[VR6 Man]

Originally Posted by Jersh

Any progress on the supercharger build up? Or are you not going that route now?

As for my car, everything was going well for awhile. The Corrado is pushing 155,000+ miles and has now hit it's first issue since the last supercharger went 2 years ago. We replaced the rear brake rotors and everything was fine. Then the rear driver's side brake started to pinch randomly while driving, causing a lot of wear on the brand new rotor. I thought it went away, but apparently not and now my rotor is pretty much completely worn out and I need to get new brake pads. So in the end, the dub will be out of commission for a little.

I'm still going that route, but it's the last thing on the list. Once I get the front end refreshed, then I'll do the timing chains and tensioners. While I have the intake manifold off for that job I will start the supercharger build.

For your Corrado, check the emergency brake cables. Make sure they aren't blistered and rotten. I had basically the same thing happen on my MK4 Jetta. I would pull the e brake to park, and when I would release it to drive somewhere, the rear brakes would stick and I actually had a rotor glowing red because the brake was stuck on and I had to drive somewhere.

The outside plastic coating can get nicked on the e-brake cable, and then the cable inside starts to rust and can get stuck. So you pull the e-brake, and when you release it, it doesnt actually release.

Anyways, check it out.

[Driftster]

Originally Posted by Evo_power

What turbo are you gonna run?

More than likely an Hx40 simply for availability, dynamic range of usefulness, and I'm not a huge fan of BW's...and Garret lost my love many years ago...

[Evo_power]

Dude that's a diesel truck turbo, get a GT35r. Not because it's cheaper or better really in anyway, but because that way you won't have a damn diesel truck turbo on your sports car.

[Cooper "s"]

what is wrong with Diesel truck trubos??





while searching for that I found:

[Evo_power]

Bwahahaha, Drift is gonna use Audi parts on his car!