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#2701 |
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Bimmer DBAG
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my garage...
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R.I.P. Randy |
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#2702 |
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Johnny Suave DeathMachine
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Oregon Awesomeness: Infinite
Posts: 23,161
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I wouldn't do it then. Those engines are meh at best. Unless you had some cheapo car just lyin around that could use an engine I don't see the point in it. Plus then ye olde lady will be like, "why did you buy that engine? You've already got 2 engines!" And you go, but it was a sweet deal!
Then you get hit with a meteorite and that's just no fun.
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"Deflecting isn't becoming." - Dorito |
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#2703 |
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Forum Guru
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Looks like everyone is having trouble finding time to work on their projects this summer. Not too many updates from anyone here.
I have my mk4 Jetta torn down to replace tie rod ends, wheel bearings, ball joints, both control arm bushings and front strut bushings. It's sat like that for about two weeks without any progress. Hopefully I get to it within the next two weeks. Is everyone else busy as well? Usually someone has something going on.
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vwworld.forumup.org ~a VW forum~ |
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#2704 |
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Wrench Monkey
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 5,980
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I've got a massive clunk coming from the front end of the Lexus. You can only hear it when braking, or when stopped with the brakes applied and you put the steering wheel on center and turn the wheel back and forth. I can't take a look at it yet, so I'm just gonna wait until I can take a look at it at school. The clunk is loud as hell though.
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That was Coop you namby pamby muppet namblin' aussie stinkfinger. -VTEC |
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#2705 |
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Johnny Suave DeathMachine
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Oregon Awesomeness: Infinite
Posts: 23,161
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Just replace your whole front suspension. It's the only way to be sure.
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"Deflecting isn't becoming." - Dorito |
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#2706 | |
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Dirty Redneck Hipster
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Quote:
CV joints? Shocks?
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"i don't expect blood from your vagina dude...no one expects THAT from you."-Drift |
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#2707 |
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Wrench Monkey
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 5,980
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I can't check yet because my doctor said no car stuff until after Labor Day. Plus at school I can just put it on a lift and not have to deal with putting it on jack stands and junk. I can tell you with 100% certainty that it isn't a CV joint though, the car is RWD.
![]() And Evo, I would love to replace the whole front suspension, I think the stuff on the left side might be a little bent from when my dad put it in a ditch years ago. Problem is, shits expensive.
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That was Coop you namby pamby muppet namblin' aussie stinkfinger. -VTEC |
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#2708 |
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Johnny Suave DeathMachine
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Oregon Awesomeness: Infinite
Posts: 23,161
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You've got a GS300 right?
I'd check out craigslist for some dude who is parting one out. Rear end collisions are your friend at this point. If you have access to a lift and an engine crane it's honestly not super hard, especially for someone who should know what they are doing like yourself. At this point it could be lots of things until you get under it and see what's up. I'd check your tie rod ends though, if something is bent it might be "self clearancing" itself. Just sell your ****in car and get a BMW.
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"Deflecting isn't becoming." - Dorito |
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#2709 | ||
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Dirty Redneck Hipster
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Quote:
Quote:
I love my truck, I can climb underneath it to check stuff and I don't need a jack. ![]() Good luck with that project there. BTW, should I go to the dealer to have my trans. seal replaced or the local trans. shop that has been around forever? The trans. prolly needs servicing too.
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"i don't expect blood from your vagina dude...no one expects THAT from you."-Drift |
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#2710 |
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Johnny Suave DeathMachine
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Oregon Awesomeness: Infinite
Posts: 23,161
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The only reason I'd go to the dealership EVER is to deal with some electronic issue on a brand new car.
You have a mechanical issue on an older pickup. The local shop will almost gaurenteed be cheaper, but you may wanna get a price estimate from both places just for shits and giggles.
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"Deflecting isn't becoming." - Dorito |
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#2711 |
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Dirty Redneck Hipster
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^Yeah, I was thinking the same thing.
The thing with the dealership is that I KNOW they will use the right trans. fluid, the local shop might not...then BOOM! REBUILD! Anyway, thanks.
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"i don't expect blood from your vagina dude...no one expects THAT from you."-Drift |
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#2712 |
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Johnny Suave DeathMachine
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Oregon Awesomeness: Infinite
Posts: 23,161
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If you're worried that they are gonna use the wrong fluid there is two things you can do
1) Do some research to find the right fluid and ask them BEFORE they do the job what kinda fluid they are going to use, then make sure they will use it. 2) Bring them the fluid yourself. Most shops get a little pissy at this, but in the end, they are still making money, so they'll do it.
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"Deflecting isn't becoming." - Dorito |
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#2713 |
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Bimmer DBAG
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R.I.P. Randy |
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#2714 | |
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Junior
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 53
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As for my car, everything was going well for awhile. The Corrado is pushing 155,000+ miles and has now hit it's first issue since the last supercharger went 2 years ago. We replaced the rear brake rotors and everything was fine. Then the rear driver's side brake started to pinch randomly while driving, causing a lot of wear on the brand new rotor. I thought it went away, but apparently not and now my rotor is pretty much completely worn out and I need to get new brake pads. So in the end, the dub will be out of commission for a little. |
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#2715 |
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DIY N/A RE 13B
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: 47798 Germany
Posts: 5,006
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Pictures!
I had to take off the wheels t get to the stabilizer bars conveniently, so I thought I finally take a picture (crappy one) of my brakes and konis ![]() As you can see, the calipers are a tight fit inside the stock 15" rims. Slight rubbing going on The reason I started this is: ![]() I busted the air baffle on a visit in the Netherlands, made a new one and decided itīs about time to do something about the rust under my car. ![]() Same stabilizer now wiped clean using an angle grinder, and then liberally applying rust convertor. Tomorrow Iīll wass off the converted rust using water and soap, let the parts dry, then paint using Brantho Korrux (far superior to the rust bullet or hammerite crap) and when dry, fit some new PU stabilizer bearings and V2A bolts ad fit it all together. When the stabilizer is done, Iīll do the front spindles, A arms (they already received a coating of rust converter) and strut mounts. Then on to the rear.
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If you canīt fix it with a hammer, you have an electric problem |
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